So when I was like 7 I wanted to be a fashion designer. I made little clothes and everything but then I just stopped. Then at 12 I got really into watching fashion videos on on style.com. I was so fascinated. Back then it was only women's wear. Even now there are no videos of the men's shows. It's not like I wanted to wear the clothes. I don't think I ever thought about people actually bought and wore the things I was seeing. The videos would have Tim Blanks making clever comments about fashion history and the season's trends, Pat McGrath waxing poetic about the makeup and the hair guys going on about extensions and brushes and layers and movement and iconic women. Hair and makeup was always technical and vaguely narrative. Something like "We've blown out the hair and rolled it with a big brush and pinned it in a few places and applied some product but only at the roots to keep it a little messy like a 70's rock chick that's just rolled out if bed ready to go out." Then editors and buyers and models talk about the collection. Everyone loves it and you learn about what women want and how they feel. The Gucci woman does this. The Versace woman is all about that. The Prada woman enjoys experimenting with whatever. I became familiar with all these fashion people. They have suck interesting accents and they are SO into it. They obviously think about fashion all the time.
Then when men.style.com debuted I was all over it. But then I got bored with all the grown man clothes. The only designer I cared about was Dior Homme because it resemble young street style. Those collections were designed by Hedi Slimane who is kind of a legend these day for popularizing this whole thin youth obsessed new rock inspired aesthetic. They say he started skinny jeans.
I think I was responding to the way the skinny awkward bodies were flattered by the clothes. I remember always feeling awkward and uncomfortable in almost everything I wore. They were so form fitting and looked so comfortable.
Two years ago year I got into Raf Simons. This collection was the first bold statement of male androgyny I saw that didn't make me think of drag. It's not about accessories and it's not about sex.
Why is the illusion of one piece feminine? Why are exposed legs feminine? Why do the boots that bear no resemblance to any standard women's shoe seem feminine? It seems to be about vulnerability. The style is futuristic; the mood us vulnerable. The message: In the future a man can be vulnerable. Full collection here.
Then I saw this last year and I'm still not over it.
I mean it seems so feminine. Its almost a little black dress but like the little black dress it's based in minimalism. It is minimal and functional and in that way highly masculine. It is a streamlined jumpsuit. It is a like a wrestling singlet, designed with nothing to grab onto. Yet it has little lapels as if it is suiting. And the boots are pure form, perfect in their lack of detailing. Full collection here.
It is currently Paris Fashion Week for menswear and while I haven't been keeping up with all the shows, the Givenchy presentation was generating a buzz among my Internet fashion sources.
I'm seeing so many unlikely influences. That white suit has a similar effect to the Pope in all white. The effect is cold and deathly. All white mimics all black. The second look combines a motorcycle jacket, formal wear, and gladiator sandals. Think about the materials: leather, fine cotton, gold. Why are gladiator sandals female footwear now? The third look is all about new styling. The sash over the wife beater is a sot frivolous accessory but it lends a foreign militia feel. Those are leggings under baggy shorts. The leggings are like extended compression shorts. The last look is amazing. The head wear is middle eastern but under a baseball cap it becomes a do rag. Think about how both symbolize violence to Conservative America. Also I'm pretty sure the shirt pulled back like that is a hood thing and it contradicts the covered head. Think about what is covered and what is revealed.
I love the idea of menswear that is unconcerned and unburdened by function. Like art.
Why is the illusion of one piece feminine? Why are exposed legs feminine? Why do the boots that bear no resemblance to any standard women's shoe seem feminine? It seems to be about vulnerability. The style is futuristic; the mood us vulnerable. The message: In the future a man can be vulnerable. Full collection here.
Then I saw this last year and I'm still not over it.
I mean it seems so feminine. Its almost a little black dress but like the little black dress it's based in minimalism. It is minimal and functional and in that way highly masculine. It is a streamlined jumpsuit. It is a like a wrestling singlet, designed with nothing to grab onto. Yet it has little lapels as if it is suiting. And the boots are pure form, perfect in their lack of detailing. Full collection here.
It is currently Paris Fashion Week for menswear and while I haven't been keeping up with all the shows, the Givenchy presentation was generating a buzz among my Internet fashion sources.
I'm seeing so many unlikely influences. That white suit has a similar effect to the Pope in all white. The effect is cold and deathly. All white mimics all black. The second look combines a motorcycle jacket, formal wear, and gladiator sandals. Think about the materials: leather, fine cotton, gold. Why are gladiator sandals female footwear now? The third look is all about new styling. The sash over the wife beater is a sot frivolous accessory but it lends a foreign militia feel. Those are leggings under baggy shorts. The leggings are like extended compression shorts. The last look is amazing. The head wear is middle eastern but under a baseball cap it becomes a do rag. Think about how both symbolize violence to Conservative America. Also I'm pretty sure the shirt pulled back like that is a hood thing and it contradicts the covered head. Think about what is covered and what is revealed.
I love the idea of menswear that is unconcerned and unburdened by function. Like art.
My favorite fashion show and one of my favorite videos of all time.
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